The perfect bolthole for travellers wanting an experience without the touts and souvenir stalls that dominate Djemaa el-Fna square. The quiet four-room Andaloussia is in the gritty-but-welcoming Bab Taghzoute neighbourhood, right at the medina’s edge. It is more like staying in a village, with chickens running around, a bustling food market and makeshift stalls on the surrounding streets where you can sip mint tea sitting on the pavement. The riad’s patio is decorated with swirling Moorish designs, rooms are simple but well-equipped, and the friendly owner, Christophe Pigy from Luxembourg, is a mine of local information. In the evening, cook Madame Halima prepares a three-course Moroccan dinner of salads, tagine or couscous and a dessert for just £8pp.
- 1 Derb Merstane, Bab Taghzoute, doubles from £22 B&B, +212 524 381 211, riad-andaloussia.com